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The Darkness Within: Your Ultimate Guide to the Goth Subculture


a woman with black hair, a lacy black top, and dark makeup

Mysterious and rebellious, glamorous and alluring: being goth has been a badge of honor among outsiders and a refuge for those who view the world through dark lenses. Goth is many things.

 

There are over forty years of rich history behind this enduring youth subculture—although you could argue that goths have been around as long as humans have been drawn to the dark and macabre. It isn’t just for young people either; many of the original “eldergoths” are well into their sixties and still going strong.

 

Whether you’re a baby bat who wants to get into the scene or a parent who’s wondering why your teenager is suddenly so obsessed with mopey music and eyeliner, here’s everything you need to know about the goth lifestyle and subculture.

 

What Is Goth?

 

You’ve probably seen goths before—we’re everywhere—so you know what goths generally look like: all-black outfits, big boots, probably some dark makeup and a long black coat of some kind (unless—horror of horrors—it’s summer). But what’s behind that dark façade?

 

Well, it depends on the person. People are drawn to the goth subculture for a variety of reasons, usually for its expressive style and sense of being a “community of outsiders.” Goth is a sensibility as much as a fashion aesthetic, and it embodies a feeling of romanticized darkness. It’s about finding beauty in the melancholy and the macabre. Goths are often drawn to the hidden aspects of life, which manifests as an interest in horror fiction, the occult, and the darker side of history. (Of course, some people just like the aesthetic, and that’s okay too!)

 

Being goth isn’t all gloom and doom, though. On the contrary, it’s a joyful celebration of the dark things most people would prefer not to think about. You know the saying “eat, drink, and be merry,” but the second part often gets left out: for tomorrow we die.

 

Being goth is about acknowledging and romanticizing the end of that phrase, the beauty of mortality. It’s also playful and often campy—I mean, you can dress up like a Victorian widow or a tragic vampire just because you feel like it. Being goth is fun.


a young woman with a tattoo of a ram skull on her chest, dark hair, and a black hat

How to Become Goth

 

In a very real sense, goths are born, not made. If you’ve ever been described as “morbid,” “scary,” or “weird,” if you’re drawn to a dark aesthetic, if Halloween is your favorite holiday—well, there’s probably an Unknown Pleasures shirt with your name on it.

 

The next step on the road to living your best goth life is embracing that aura of difference and choosing to celebrate it. After all, it’s the unique point of view you bring to the world. Goth is a way of looking at life as much as a fashion aesthetic. To become goth, just work on making your outside match the darkness within.

 

It’s also worth noting that just because you’ve decided to become goth, it doesn’t mean you have to dress goth 24/7. There are no goth police who are going to come after you for wearing “normie” clothes to work or school or the grocery store. Some days you’re just not feeling it, or you don’t want to attract attention—and that’s fine! Save the ultra-vampy goth aesthetic for when you really want to celebrate life’s dark delights.

 

If you’re serious about becoming goth, though, it’ll take more than throwing some black outfits together. You’ll also want to explore the rich and atmospheric goth music genre.

 

Goth Music

 

Goth started out as a music scene that rose from the ashes of punk in the late 1970s, and music remains the core of the goth scene’s identity. So, what music do goths listen to?


Gothic rock is characterized by melodic basslines, ornate synths, and deep, droning or crooning vocals. Lyrics are preoccupied with longing, death, and melancholy. It has a sense of dark atmosphere and pounding rhythm. For all its bleak themes of despair and alienation, goth music is dance music at heart. It’s hypnotic and trancelike.


In addition to gothic rock, the goth music genre includes dark electronic music known as darkwave or darksynth. There is quite a bit of overlap with genres like industrial, post punk, shoegaze, synthwave, and dream pop as well.

 

Most goth events involve local music scenes, touring bands, and dj shows. While it’s technically possible to be goth without being into the music, going to shows is one of the only reliable ways to find and connect with other goths. (The other is baiting a trap with the collected works of Edgar Allan Poe.)


two musicians playing synthesizers with smoke machine

So how do you get into goth music?

 

Goth music hasn’t really changed all that much since its inception over forty years ago with Bauhaus’ classic 1979 single “Bela Lugosi’s Dead.” Current goth bands like Lebanon Hanover, Twin Tribes, and She Past Away still draw inspiration from their ‘80s forebears, although their sound is more modern.

 

Try listening to some of the most popular and accessible goth bands of the ‘80s like The Cure, Siouxsie and the Banshees, Bauhaus, and The Sisters of Mercy to get a feel for the sound, then explore the second generation of goth music to find some new favorites. Check out our guide to ‘80s goth bands for a trip back into goth history to get you started.

 

How to Goth Dance

 

Once you’ve listened to some goth bands, it’s time to hit up a goth club night to commune with your fellow children of the night. But how do you dance like you belong?

 

Goth dancing involves a lot of languid swaying to the rhythm of the music, maybe with some simple two-steps thrown in. Goth music isn’t especially fast for the most part since that would kill the spooky, contemplative mood—and most of us aren’t trying to work out while wearing a corset and swathed head to toe in black velvet. It’s pretty easy to just “vibe” to, but if you’re interested in some more elaborate moves, this video has some good examples.

 

Goth Fashion Aesthetic Influences

 

A number of aesthetic threads make up the rich and varied tapestry that is goth fashion—there’s a lot more to being goth than just wearing black!

 

Goth started out as a dark and gloomy offshoot of punk in the late 70s-early 80s, and a lot of the punk look was retained in the androgynous silhouettes, teased and dyed hair, and fishnet sleeves worn by the first wave of so-called “trad” goths.

 

Catholic iconography is a major influence on goth style, which often incorporates things like rosaries, lace veils, and crucifixes. Ancient Egypt is another gothic inspiration, appearing in ankh necklaces, scarab amulets, snake jewelry, and heavy stylized eyeliner reminiscent of figures from paintings on the walls of Egyptian tombs.

 

Victorian fashion is another big part of the goth subculture, although most goths don’t actually go around in capes, taffeta dresses, and tophats (at least, not without a special occasion). All-black Victorian mourning ensembles are often the first things that come to mind when most people picture a goth fashion aesthetic thanks to Tim Burton movies and other pop culture depictions. Oftentimes, goths will wear Victorian-inspired clothes that are somewhat less ostentatious, such as ruffled lace blouses, black maxi skirts, and pointed leather boots for everyday wear.

 

Another popular goth aesthetic involves skintight black leather or latex leggings or bodysuits, often worn with corsets or leather harnesses and sky-high platform boots—think Trent Reznor of Nine Inch Nails or Kate Beckinsale in the Underworld movies.

 

That’s not even getting into hyper-specific categories like cybergoth, pastel goth, and lolita goth (but you can learn more about these different goth fashion aesthetics here).


a woman with pigtails and black eyeliner posing in front of a brick wall

How to Dress Gothic

 

With these varying fashion aesthetics in mind, the possibilities are practically endless. Goth fashion is all about expressing individuality, so feel free to mix and match with different pieces that speak to you. There’s no need to conform to one Instagram-ready goth aesthetic—especially if you’re just getting your feet wet. The most important thing is to have fun with it.

 

The key to making clothes goth is to have a unifying aesthetic or look in mind when you put outfits together. For example, a floral printed maxi dress that would normally read as boho/hippie becomes goth when paired with a fringed black duster, black tights, and pointed black boots. Want to wear black pants and a matching button down without looking like you’re on your way to high school orchestra practice? Skip the sneakers and lace up some Doc Martens instead.

 

It might be helpful to think of goth as a spectrum. Some days—like when you’re heading to the goth club—you might want to go all out and dress like Brandon Lee in The Crow or Morticia Addams. Other days, you’ll probably want to go for more of a “soft goth” look with just a hint of darkness. (After all, it takes a lot of work to get into vamp mode!) This is when band hoodies and comfy black jeans or cargo pants are your friends.

 

Goth Basics

 

Black basics are going to be in the heaviest rotation in your wardrobe, so stock up on black t-shirts, button-downs, pants, skirts, and dresses you can dress up or down. Of course, you can also branch out into other colors—dark reds, grays, and deep earth tones are all perfectly at home in a goth wardrobe. Even an all-white outfit can be 100% goth depending on the styling and accessories.

 

Goth Accessories

 

The easiest way to add a gothic touch to your look is with accessories. A plain black outfit is instantly gothified with the addition of some platform boots, black lace gloves, or a bat wing collar pin. If you’re just starting out, choose one goth accessory to be the focal point of your outfit, and build your look around it.

 

If you’re having trouble figuring out what accessories are “goth,” think about the edgy, romantic, or quirky vibes you’re going for and look for something that matches. Black leather chokers and bracelets are a popular choice, usually with spikes or studs. Goth jewelry often incorporates things like skulls, bones, roses, moths, ravens, insects, and bats. These are just a few examples of the kinds of gothic motifs to look out for as you search for your perfect accessories.

 

Your chosen aesthetic should be reflected in the accessories you use. For example, a Romantic goth look with lacy sleeves and a velvet jacket might incorporate a lot of big statement rings. A casual goth look might just involve a simple black choker or some long necklaces.


a woman with pink hair and black lipstick

Piercings, Tattoos, and Hair Dye

 

Many goths also use tattoos and piercings to express their individuality. Goth tattoos can range from romantic flowers to terrifying horror imagery, or they can reference your favorite movie or other piece of media with gothic themes (just make sure it’s something you’re not likely to fall out of love with—think of all those poor unfortunates with Game of Thrones or Harry Potter tattoos).

 

Hair color is another staple of goth self-expression, with many dyeing their hair black or opting for a colorful goth hairstyle. If you don’t want to commit to a long-term relationship with hair dye, try a semi-permanent hair color like the classic vegan goth/punk brand Manic Panic. This is great for getting vibrant color that washes out in a few weeks if you just want to try out a different look for a short time.

 

How to Do Goth Makeup

 

Goth makeup can be as heavy or as minimal as you prefer. (In fact, you can be a creature of the night with no makeup at all—just look at Mothman.)

 

That being said, most people think black eyeliner when they think goth for a reason. It’s a classic, and there are so many ways to wear it. Black lipstick is also a popular choice, but more goth lipstick colors are plum, violet, brown, deep crimson, and even bright red. (You don’t have to buy specialty goth brands either—plenty of drugstore brands have ravishing shades of dark lipstick.) Even soft pink can be goth if you adopt a pastel goth aesthetic and pair it with edgy eye makeup.


Eyes & Face

 

Goth eyeshadow looks can be extremely intricate and creative, and there are lots of tutorials out there. Try starting out with a black smokey eye for a forgiving eyeshadow application you don’t have to worry too much about smudging, and experiment with more complicated looks as you go. Some goths even shave their eyebrows so they can apply big, dramatic eye makeup. As with all things goth, the only rule is “you do you.”

 

Heavy white face makeup is known as “corpse paint,” and it’s a must for those highly theatrical goth looks. For a softer touch of deathly pallor with light, ethereal coverage, try a pancake makeup or liquid foundation, and finish with translucent powder for a look that is easy to wear every day.


a man with silver rings, earrings, and black eyeliner

Goth Makeup for Guys

 

Many goth men wear makeup and nail polish, even if it’s just for occasions like goth club nights. You can’t go wrong with black nails and subtle eyeliner. Use a kohl eyeliner pencil to draw a soft line around your eyes and rub it in with your fingertips for a smudgy look if you aren’t used to applying eye makeup.

 

If that feels comfortable, you can always step it up. (Hey, Robert Smith has been wearing red lipstick and smudged mascara since 1982.) Goth culture is big on androgyny, so there’s nothing stopping you from experimenting with fun makeup looks.

 

Goth Subculture Inspiration

 

Goths take inspiration from a variety of sources. Here are some of the main ones:

 

The Gothic

 

One of the major influences—and where goth gets its name—is from the gothic movement of the early 19th century. This was a dark offshoot of Romanticism, a literature and art movement that celebrated nature, emotion, and the sublime. Writers like Mary Shelley, Edgar Allan Poe, and Lord Byron created dark, twisted tales of horror, often with supernatural elements. Gothic artists painted scenes that were macabre and terrifying, or steeped in a sense of melancholy.  They contemplated the frightening power of nature and the mysteries of the unknown.


The Victorians

 

In the years that followed the gothic movement, Victorian writers and artists would continue to explore its themes of death, decay, and dark beauty. Poets like Alfred Lord Tennyson, Christina Rosetti, and Robert Browning created bleak meditations on love and grief, while Oscar Wilde shocked the world with his gory play Salomé and his macabre novel The Picture of Dorian Gray. Bram Stoker and Sheridan LeFanu popularized vampire lore with the novels Dracula and Carmilla.

 

Aesthetically, the Victorian period is deeply fascinating to many goths, who might opt for a steampunk look or wear clothes associated with the era. Victorian mortuary practices like photographing the dead and wearing jewelry made from the hair of a deceased loved one are very goth as well.


a woman in a black and red victorian dress posing in the desert

 

Horror Fiction & Movies

 

As silent horror films like Nosferatu and The Cabinet of Dr. Caligari gave way to the Universal horror movies of the 30s and 40s, iconic movie monsters like Dracula and Frankenstein’s monster became cemented in the popular consciousness.  The British Hammer Horror films were also hugely influential. This old-school horror aesthetic casts a long shadow over the goth scene.

 

Every goth has a different favorite horror movie, but a love of onscreen depictions of the sinister and scary unites us all. 1980s and 90s films from Beetlejuice to The Crow to The Craft continue to be touchstones of goth culture—check out this list of goth movies to find one that speaks to your inner darkness.

 

Horror novels—particularly those with romance elements—are very influential. Lots of goths grew up devouring Stephen King books and The Vampire Chronicles by Anne Rice (and the many, many vampire romances that followed in their wake). Neil Gaiman’s macabre fantasy stories are beloved by goths, particularly his graphic novel series The Sandman, as are the works of horror manga artist Junji Ito—just to name a few.


This list of goth books will add a dose of darkness to your bookshelf.

 

Medieval, Renaissance & Baroque Art

 

The gothic cathedrals and castles of the high Middle Ages in Europe captivate a lot of goths with their soaring arches and dark silhouettes crawling with gargoyles. The Italian Renaissance is also a continual source of inspiration. From the hellish visions of Dante’s Inferno to Botticelli’s angels and Caravaggio’s saints, the centuries surrounding the Renaissance are full of dark beauty just waiting to be explored. The gothic imagination loves to contemplate the ghosts of the past, and this period provides a rich and vibrant fresco to wander.

 

Cultural Inspiration

 

Many goths celebrate tales of the dark and supernatural rooted in their respective cultures. For example, the Latine gothic aesthetic often uses Día de los Muertos imagery and borrows from ghostly Latin American folklore. Goths of Europe might incorporate pre-Christian pagan visual motifs in their style, and Indian goths put a dark spin on traditional attire. Indigenous goths take inspiration from cultural stories and traditions. In this way, goth can be an avenue to connect with your culture and identity.


 a woman with red streaks in her hair and piercings looking pensively out a window

Goth Subculture Beliefs

 

Goths cherish individuality and creativity and often have a dark sense of humor to match their gloomy aesthetic. The overall attitude of the scene is “live and let live” (or maybe “die and let die” would be more appropriate). It is very accepting of queer and gender nonconforming people—in fact, this informal Reddit poll suggests that a substantial majority of goths are LGBTQIA+. (The subculture also attracts a high number of autistic and neurodivergent folks as well.)

 

Given its demographic makeup, it’s no surprise that most people in the goth scene hold decidedly liberal and/or leftist political beliefs. For example, many goths care deeply about ethical, sustainable clothing and choose to make or thrift their clothes rather than buying fast fashion. Rejecting consumerism and embracing a DIY ethos is a pretty standard goth belief. Goth also has an anti-authoritarian streak given its emphasis on self-expression and being unconventional.


Of course, no subculture is a monolith and there are some conservative goths out there, but they are definitely the minority.

 

In terms of religion, the scene is quite secular overall, and most goths would probably identify as atheistic or agnostic. However, a lot of people drawn to the gothic aesthetic are also practitioners of neopagan religions like Wicca, or just people with a more informal interest in witchcraft and the occult.

 

At the end of the day, goth is an aesthetic, and nothing about it conflicts with the practice of any religion. There are Christian goths and hijabi Muslim goths, as well as goths belonging to a variety of other religions. As long as you’re having fun, being spooky, and respecting others, you’re doing it right.

 

Where do I find other goths?

 

Being goth can feel isolating at times, but rest assured, there are other spooky people out there! Most medium to large cities have several dedicated goth club nights per month, or even clubs and bars catering to a gothic clientele. If sober goth events are more your speed, look for things like horror movie screenings or tabletop gaming groups.

 

In rural areas, you might have to do a little digging, but local scenes do exist even in seemingly remote places. Keep an eye out for events like your local Renaissance Faire (always a rural goth favorite), and be sure to support touring goth bands when they come to your area and attend local goth-friendly events like underground music shows, arts and crafts festivals, and flea markets.

 

When you’re out and about, dressing goth or wearing a favorite band shirt will help other goths recognize a dark kindred spirit.


a man with goth makeup and a spiked choker

What do goths like?

 

As much as the goth subculture is heavily individualistic, there are some things a lot of us tend to agree on. From movies to books to tv shows to home decor, your next obsession might just be lurking on this list of stuff goths like:

 

Film & TV

 

·  John Waters

·  David Lynch

·  Early Tim Burton

·  Guillermo del Toro

·  Orson Welles

·  Stanley Kubrick

·  Cheesy ‘50s monster movies

·  Daria

·  Hannibal (2013)

·  David Cronenberg

·  Dario Argento

 

Books & Authors

 

·  Franz Kafka

·  Shirley Jackson

·  Dark sci fi like Dune and Ray Bradbury stories

·  Octavia Butler

·  E.T.A. Hoffmann

·  Emily Brontë

·  Clive Barker

·  Fyodor Dostoevsky

·  Tananarive Due

·  J.R.R. Tolkien

·  Ursula K. LeGuin

·  J.G. Ballard

·  Neil Gaiman

·  Gothic novels like The Monk by Matthew Lewis and The Castle of Otranto by Horace Walpole

 

Music

 

·  Classic and Contemporary Goth Bands

·  David Bowie

·  The Velvet Underground

·  Neutral Milk Hotel

·  Joy Division

·  Misfits

·  Patti Smith

·  Kate Bush

·  Swans

·  Grace Jones

·  The Cramps

·  Depeche Mode

·  Dark classical music

·  Have A Nice Life

·  Echo & the Bunnymen


[Just to name a few!]

 

Hobbies & Interests

 

·  Vampire mythology

·  Dark, moody art movements such as the Baroque and German Expressionism

·  Researching historical tragedies like shipwrecks, etc.

·  Tarot symbolism

·  Dungeons & Dragons, Vampire: The Masquerade, and other roleplaying games

·  Cats (a lot of goths are “cat people”)

·  Ghost folklore

·  Greek myths (especially Hades & Persephone)

·  True crime & unsolved mysteries

·  Medical oddities

·  Horror video games with gothic themes like Castlevania:BloodlinesBloodborneDarkwood, and Silent Hill.

·  Cryptids

·  Crafts like sewing and embroidery

·  Screen printing

·  Art, illustration, and printmaking

·  Witchcraft & magical lore

·  Hanging out in cemeteries

·  Snakes & other nontraditional pets

·  Writing & poetry

 

Home Decor

 

·  Edward Gorey illustrations

·  Various cursed-looking amulets

·  Using antlers and bones to decorate your house

·  Creepy antique mirrors

·  Horror movie posters

·  Victorian-style furniture

·  Medieval memento mori & danse macabre art

·  Anatomical drawings and models

 

 

Goth has endured for so long because it is highly adaptable. There’s no set of rules you have to follow—just show off your spooky nature in a way that is meaningful to you. Hopefully, this guide to the goth subculture will help get you started on the road to embracing your darkness. Happy haunting!



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