Dark and resinous patchouli is a treasured perfume ingredient the world over. Though its scent is often associated with hippies and head shops, there’s so much more to this fragrance note than its crunchy reputation would suggest. It’s a versatile material with many facets and varieties, and its air of depth and mystery makes it perfect for gothic fragrances.
What is patchouli?
Patchouli is a kind of herb in the mint family native to tropical regions and frequently used in perfumery. Its deep, dark woodiness makes it an ideal base note in perfume compositions to pair with lighter, sweet scents like vanilla, fruit, and flowers. Patchouli essential oil mixed with a carrier oil is often worn on its own as a single-note fragrance. Different geographic locations produce slightly different smelling patchouli varieties.
What does patchouli oil smell like?
Patchouli oil has a deep, earthy, somewhat sharp smell. It is redolent of damp bark and green, mossy forests. It can be resinous and sweet or more dry and woody depending on the variety of the patchouli used and how it is processed. It can even have notes of cacao and licorice. The scent on its own tends to lean “masculine,” but patchouli is a primary ingredient in many women’s perfumes as well. It is often described as a grounding, uplifting fragrance.
It has long been associated with counterculture movements and was popularized in the West by the hippies of the 1960s and early ‘70s. Because of this, a lot of people associate patchouli with the smell of cannabis, but the two aren’t actually that similar apart from being “green,” “earthy” types of scents. However, patchouli tends to be a love it or hate it note, especially when worn on its own as a fragrance oil.
If you’ve never smelled patchouli before, try an inexpensive roll-on ($9) to see if you like it, and get ready to start exploring these wonderful patchouli perfumes:
The Best Patchouli Perfumes
Alkemia Perfumes Patchouli Amour
This sumptuous blend ($25) of three patchoulis brings out the green, balsamic qualities of the herb as well as its earthy depths. Combined with a touch of rich agarwood, this is a fragrance for lovers of all things dark and complex.
Vampfangs No. 11 – Omen
This Salem, Massachusetts brand has a number of dark and mysterious goth fragrance oils, and this one ($20) featuring frankincense, patchouli, floral notes, fruits, and musk is a must-have for patchouli lovers. Here, it plays a background role among a collection of notes that make up a warm and captivating composition.
Lush Lord of Misrule
Patchouli and vanilla make for a classic combination, and this beloved perfume ($22) from Lush adds a stimulating dash of black pepper to the mix. Sweet and alluring without sacrificing depth, this scent is perfect for when you need a burst of energy. (It is also available as a massage bar, solid perfume, shower gel, and scented candle.)
BPAL Imp Pack: Patchouli Perfume Oil
Artisan fragrance oil brand Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab is known among perfume nerds for its ravishing patchouli scents such as their signature blend Snake Oil ($32) (and they also support a lot of great causes as well). They offer most perfumes in their vast, goth-friendly collection as “imps,” or small sample vials that cost about $5 each.
Can’t decide on just one fragrance? This convenient sample pack ($36) with six delectable patchouli scents lets you find the one that speaks to you–or you can rotate between them for endless variety.
Scents include: Anne Bonny (red patchouli, sandalwood, frankincense); The Coiled Serpent (pure patchouli blend); Imp (white peach, amber, musk, patchouli); Namaste (sandalwood, jasmine, rose, patchouli, cedarwood and lemongrass); The Obsidian Widow (pinot noir, dark myrrh, red sandalwood, black patchouli, night-blooming jasmine, and attar of rose); and Sin (amber, sandalwood, black patchouli and cinnamon).
Once you’re ready to stock up on one you love, you can buy 5 ml bottles of BPAL perfumes for around $25-$35.
Neela Vermiere Creations Mohur Extrait
This transporting and decadent fragrance is a classical rose-oud blend with basenotes of rich patchouli enhanced by swirling spices. A full bottle of this magical elixir retails for around 400 euros, but luckily you can pick up a sample or decant ($10+) from Scent Split.
Tom Ford White Patchouli
Widely considered to be a masterpiece, this perfume blends clean white florals with spicy, woody patchouli in a radiant composition. Although it has been unfortunately discontinued by the manufacturer, you can try your luck on Ebay or grab a high-quality impression from Oil Perfumery ($15).
Eris Parfums Night Flower
Soft suede, buttery tuberose, and rich patchouli combine for a fragrance ($145) that is at once sophisticated and decadent. Don’t let the bright, citrusy topnotes fool you–this one has plenty of depth.
Serge Lutens Borneo 1834
Patchouli takes center stage in this elegant composition ($282) that is at once shadowy and radiant. This is a masculine-leaning fragrance, but it could easily be worn by a woman. Bone dry and chocolatey with spicy, floral accents, this is a complex yet comforting patchouli perfume you won’t be able to stop smelling.
If you’d rather not spring for a full bottle, snag a sample or decant ($6+) from The Perfumed Court.
Chanel Coromandel
A beautiful fragrance often considered to be the holy grail for patchouli fans, this is a scent that exudes classic Chanel elegance. This plush, opulent blend ($325) foregrounds the patchouli while combining it with bitter orange, amber, florals, white chocolate, and musk. It’s a rich and varied perfume that will definitely linger in your memory.
These luscious patchouli fragrances should help you fall in love with this popular perfume ingredient. Patchouli can be polarizing, but when it works for you, it adds a sense of depth and mystery to your perfume wardrobe that is unlike anything else. Explore all its shadowy facets, and you’ll be the belle of the batcave.